For FW27, Caitac Japan is highlighting a focused group of non-denim fabrics developed by Cosmo Textile in Japan. The collection moves across brushed cottons, moleskin, pigment-dyed chino, buck sateen, and specialty blended bases, giving designers more ways to build texture and character into pants, overshirts, jackets, and utility-inspired outerwear.

These fabrics are united by one idea: surface matters. From suede-like brushing and soft moleskin to pigment dyes designed to develop with wear, each base brings a different hand and visual depth to a collection. They pair naturally with denim, while opening up a broader story for non-denim pieces.


Brushed cottons and moleskins

Brushed fabrics offer a softer, more premium alternative to standard twill or chino. They are especially useful in fall and winter collections, where designers want warmth and tactility without adding excessive bulk.

BD8637-266 is a 7.1 oz organic cotton dobby fabric with a loose specialty weave and suede-like brushed finish. Its velour-like surface and supple hand make it a strong choice for elevated overshirts, soft jackets, and textured bottoms.

BD5679-182 is a 7.8 oz double-brushed stretch chino. Different brushing is applied to each side, creating a soft, warm fabric with a gentle feel. It is a practical option for comfortable trousers, skirts, and light outerwear.

For a more classic workwear direction, BD2951-7 is a 6.8 oz brushed stretch moleskin with a delicate suede-like finish. The cotton/stretch construction gives it a soft, premium hand with added ease, making it well suited to pants, shirt-jackets, and utility pieces.

BD1159-153 takes moleskin in a more elevated direction. This 7.2 oz, 100% cotton fabric uses extra-long-staple cotton and loosely twisted yarns to create softness and subtle luster. It is a natural fit for refined fatigue pants, chore jackets, and military-inspired outerwear.

Buck sateen and pigment chinos

Buck sateen and pigment-dyed chino are core building blocks for vintage-inspired utility pieces. Both offer depth of color and a surface that becomes more interesting with processing and wear.

BD4031-259 is a 7.7 oz stretch vintage buck sateen in army green. Different original yarns are used in the weft to create a textured back-sateen construction with a worn-in character. Its pigment dye allows the color to shift and develop over time, making it especially compelling for fatigue pants, field jackets, and washed utility styles.

BD3993-283 is an 8.1 oz pigment-dyed chino in dark grey. The base is first piece-dyed, then overdyed with black pigment to create a deeper, more dimensional color. After garment processing, it can develop a faded, lived-in look that works particularly well for workwear-inspired trousers and jackets.


Technical and blended bases

The group also includes three lighter or blended options for designers who need different performance, drape, or seasonal flexibility.

BD6156-7 is a 3.8 oz cotton/linen poplin with a washer finish that gives the fabric a rougher, vintage character. At 58 inches wide, it is a useful option for lighter shirts, dresses, and layered tops that need a dry, natural hand.

BD3003-255 is a 4.3 oz nylon/polyester fabric with a water-repellent finish. Made with a special microfiber, it has a smooth, lightly brushed-like hand that is ideal for lightweight anoraks, utility shells, and technical outerwear.

BD2715-153 is an 8.0 oz cotton/wool twill with wool-blended yarn in the weft. Tumble finishing gives it a full, soft hand reminiscent of worn-in vintage clothing. It works well for chore jackets, soft trousers, and relaxed outerwear.


Designed around hand and aging

Cosmo Textile is a Japanese textile manufacturer and converter known for natural-fiber fabrics, particularly chinos, moleskins, and outerwear bases. A converter develops and finishes fabrics to its own specifications, managing details such as dyeing, brushing, special finishes, and color development.

That development-first approach is evident throughout this group. Whether the goal is a velour-like brushed surface, a soft moleskin, a pigment-dyed patina, or a water-repellent shell, each fabric is designed to offer more than a standard solid base.

For FW27, these Caitac Japan fabrics provide a strong non-denim complement to premium denim: familiar enough for everyday product, but distinctive enough to give a collection texture, depth, and a more complete fabric story.


Explore the group

To request swatches or discuss which bases suit your silhouettes and wash direction, contact Caitac Denim. We can also help build a focused non-denim capsule pairing brushed cotton, moleskin, buck sateen, chino, and selected denim qualities. Explore the collection here.